An version of
this piece first appeared in Small Winery Magazine.
Sitting on
a winery’s patio, I hear someone at a nearby table ask her companions, “I just
had a red. Now I want a white. Can I do that?”
The question
says a great deal about some people’s anxiety when it comes to wine. What are they allowed to do? They know there are codes and ways of doing
things, and they fear they might break them by acting on their desires. They also fear that someone will then correct
them.
I didn’t
hear the responses of the others at the table because I was remembering a story
about my father.
At the end of a business dinner in
a Paris restaurant, my father once asked for a glass of milk. The waiter refused to bring him one. “Milk is for babies,” he explained. Rather than intimidate my dad, this made him
want a glass even more. He insisted; the
waiter refused. They had something like
the following argument.
“You do
have milk, don’t you?”
“Oui.”
“You would
serve it to a child.”
“Oui.”
“Pretend I’m
a child.”
“But you
are not.”
“I was
once.”
“But you
are not now.”
“If I had a
child with me, you would give it to him.”
“Oui.”
“Pretend
that I do and bring me his.”
“But you do
not, and I will not.”
“Do you
serve café au lait?”
“Oui.”
“It’s coffee
with milk, right?”
“Oui.”
“Would you
serve me that?”
“Oui.”
“Then bring
me a café au lait and hold the café.”
Eventually, to the embarrassment of
the Europeans at the table, my dad was brought a glass of milk which he
proceeded to drink with great relish.
My father
doesn’t believe that a restaurant’s staff gets to decide who should or
shouldn’t be allowed to consume their products.
Nor should they insist on how their dishes are to be eaten. If you want to have dessert first or fifteen
appetizers or, as my dad sometimes does, a piece of apple pie with gravy or
cheese on top, then that’s your choice. The
servers and even the chef can make recommendations, but they should not issue
commandments. The commands (in French
“commander” or “to order”) come from the customer.
My father would never ask, “Can I
do that?” He knows what he wants, and
usually he knows the expected social behavior even when he chooses to ignore
it. The woman on the patio was
different. She knew what she wanted, but
she didn’t know about the etiquette. She
was afraid of doing something wrong and making a “mistake.”
Usually, people drink from white to
red, light to heavy. There are good
reasons to have wines in this sequence, but, if you don’t, the bottles won’t
shatter, the glasses won’t fall off the bar, no one will be scandalized and call
the police. And, if someone does become
upset? If they absolutely insist on a certain order or code? Then the problem isn’t what you’re drinking,
but who you are drinking with.
Wine snobs are much more rare than
the stereotypes suggest, but they do exist.
And, unfortunately, bad companions – those who condescend, or those who
believe people need to be educated to appreciate the “right” wines-- leave much more of an unpleasant after-taste
than bad wines. There is, however, an
easy solution. Dump them and try tasting with someone else.
The answer to “Can I do that?” when
you’re trying wine, should always be, “Sure, if you want.”
A nice read. I often find myself intimated, inexperienced, especially when I am attempting to order something new, and am weary that I will be laughed at for not following the normal procedure. Glad to hear that it's ok to go after what interests you.
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